“Dupe alert!” : On social media, particularly on TikTok, hundreds of thousands of videos of young women are highlighting their latest finds of "dupes" of existing cosmetic products. Foundation, lipstick, moisturizer, or sunscreen: they supposedly achieve the same results as their original model, for more than half the price.
Cousin of counterfeiting, "the phenomenon is more subtle and sometimes difficult to identify", Xavier Guéant, director of legal affairs at the Federation of Beauty Companies (Febea), told AFP. The Federation issued an "alert" on World Anti-Counterfeiting Day on June 4.
But these products, "increasingly numerous" And “increasingly popular among young consumers,” represent "a health risk", he says. In the federation's sights: products sold on e-commerce platforms outside the European Union, mainly Asian ones such as Temu, Shein or AliExpress, and “manufactured outside of any regulatory framework for hygiene or quality control.”
"We are exposed to multiple dangers"
According to a C-Ways study conducted for Febea in March 2025, 31% of French people had purchased a dupe in the previous twelve months. But 96% of them were unaware of the risks involved. "In France, the system is serious. But as soon as we move away from this framework and source from sites where there are no controls, we expose ourselves to multiple dangers.", explains to AFP Dr. Stéphane Pirnay, toxicology expert and director of the company Expertox.
In addition to the allergen risk, the products of "poor quality", may contain substances "toxic", prohibited or exceeding authorized limits, which may represent "real health risks", he insists. The toxicologist also warns of a chemical risk, as some tested products regularly contain "heavy metals" Or "phthalates", chemical substances considered to be endocrine disruptors.
Another danger identified: an infectious risk, as certain products studied may contain numerous pathogens. "We are really surprised to see all the things that can be found in counterfeits in general: earth, stones, excrement, bird feathers.", lists Mr. Pirnay.
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Laurence Coiffard, a pharmacy professor at the Nantes University specializing in cosmetology, took an interest in the sunscreens sold on these platforms. She and her team analyzed two counterfeit products claiming SPF 50+, as well as a few dupes. The result: "None of these products actually contained UV filters.", she reveals.
"They therefore provide no protection against UV rays and there is a great danger in using them," she warns, while sun exposure is the main cause of skin cancer. For Ms. Coiffard, sites like Temu or AliExpress are “the ultimate sales niche” counterfeit products or dupes "where they can reign supreme", because they are marketed without meeting European regulatory requirements.
“Overwhelmed by the scale of the phenomenon”
According to a study published by the European Consumer Organisation (BEUC) in February, more than 80% of the tested products purchased on Temu did not comply with European legislation. For cosmetics, the most significant breaches involved missing or incorrect ingredient lists, making it difficult to know what the products actually contain.
"When you charge prices like they do, you can't reasonably make safety assessments.", also points out Xavier Guéant. And even if controls exist, "The market is so huge that the players are overwhelmed by the scale of the phenomenon.", adds Ms. Coiffard.
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With the launch of TikTok Shop in France in March (which allows purchases to be made directly within the app), Xavier Guéant fears that this more direct link between seller and buyer will benefit deception and counterfeiters. Along with Febea, he calls for strengthening the legal framework to "clarify the gray areas" and increasing the resources dedicated to controls.
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