When British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal, holder of three Michelin stars, began undergoing treatment for obesity, he lost his appetite. Convinced that the success of these medications will revolutionize the restaurant industry, he now offers a lighter version of his signature menu.
Following the United States, GLP-1 anti-obesity treatments, known by the names Ozempic, Wegovy, Mounjaro etc., have taken the United Kingdom by storm.
Although there are no official figures on the number of users of these "skinny jabs" ("slimming injections"), which mimic the action of a hormone that helps regulate blood sugar and appetite, some studies suggest 1.5 million Britons, others more than 3.5 million.
For Heston Blumenthal, who is among them, "this is just the beginning."
This 59-year-old, one of Britain's most famous chefs, opened his restaurant "The Fat Duck" in 1995 in the village of Bray, west of London. Nine years later, Michelin awarded him three stars.
He has other Michelin-starred restaurants, notably in London and Dubai. He is also a television celebrity in his country and abroad – he appears on the reality TV show Top Chef in France – known for his approach combining science and cuisine.
– “Reinventing oneself” –
In interviews, he no longer talks only about his "multisensory" cuisine, but also about mental health.
Two years ago, he was diagnosed with bipolar disorder. His medication caused him to gain 40 kilos, and his doctor advised him to undergo anti-obesity treatment.
“When I started, I had absolutely no appetite. It was really strange,” he told AFP. “I felt full without having eaten much.” After some initial concern, he noted with relief that the treatment “hadn’t killed” his taste buds.
He lost 20 kilos but also realized the "danger" for the restaurant industry. "This is going to have a huge impact on how we eat." In addition to having less appetite, people might have less interest in food. For a chef, it's "a big challenge, but also an exciting one." It requires "rethinking" certain things, "reinventing ourselves."
In England, where 64.51% of adults were overweight or obese in 2024, the public health service is overwhelmed with appointment requests from patients seeking these treatments.
Faced with waiting lists, hundreds of thousands of Britons are resigned to going to the private sector and paying 175 pounds (200 euros) a month for the drug.
Since the beginning of October, Heston Blumenthal has been offering the "The mindful experience" menu, with portions half the size of those in his flagship "The journey" menu, but with the same textures and flavors.
The price is 275 pounds (75 less than "The Journey"), or 314 euros. The service and kitchen staff remain the same, the chef explains.
As an aperitif, an airy foam, with lime and green tea, disappears in the mouth in seconds. "The idea is to awaken the palate," explains Heston Blumenthal.
A dish called "By the Sea" is enjoyed with the sound of waves and seagulls in your ears. The chef has created a crab ice cream, presented in cones, Italian-style.
– “To appreciate more” –
The menu was a success from the very first weeks. Of the first 80 customers, only one said they hadn't eaten enough.
"When there is less food, you can appreciate it more," professes Heston Blumenthal, who gladly spends ten minutes biting into a single grape, analyzing each of his sensations.
“Being less driven by appetite has made me more aware of my taste buds. I surprised myself by eating less, but with more thought,” says the chef, who continues to follow the treatment.
He is not the only one to have become aware of the upheaval underway.
Indian-born chef Atul Kochhar launched a menu with smaller dishes after hearing customers say, "It's a bit much, we won't be able to eat it all." "I'd be lying if I said I wasn't worried," he told Channel 4 television.
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